With So Many Whitening Products, Which Ingredients Are The Most Effective?

What is melanin?

Melanin is the main factor that determines skin color. The amount of melanin depends on the activity of tyrosinase in melanocytes. Melanocytes can produce melanin, which affects the color of the skin. So how is melanin formed?

The melanocytes in the human body are stimulated by the outside world, such as ultraviolet rays in the sun, and tyrosinase is produced, so that the tyrosine contained in our cells is converted into dopa under the action of tyrosinase. After a series of oxidations, Ba forms melanin, which makes our skin dark, so if we want to whiten, we need to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase or prevent the oxidation of dopa, then we need to target To buy whitening products, let`s learn about the specific functions of various whitening ingredients.

Ingredient - Niacinamide

Niacinamide is the main ingredient of many whitening products. The effect of niacinamide can precipitate melanin, prevent the transfer of melanin from melanocytes to skin keratinocytes, accelerate the metabolism of cells, and accelerate the shedding of melanin keratinocytes, so as to achieve the effect of whitening. At the same time, nicotinamide also has the effect of anti-glycation, which can prevent yellowing of the skin. Studies have confirmed that nicotinamide at a concentration of 2% to 5% has a certain effect on pigmentation caused by ultraviolet rays.

◽ Advantages:

It can inhibit melanin, anti-glycation, reduce wrinkles and pore problems caused by skin aging, and combat facial dullness.

◽ Disadvantages:

It is irritating to the skin. Before use, the skin needs to establish a certain tolerance. The concentration of niacinamide needs to be higher than 2% to have a whitening effect. The higher the concentration, the stronger the irritation. use.

Ingredient - Arbutin

Arbutin was first found in bearberry leaves and is the main active component of bearberry leaves. Arbutin is the precursor of hydroquinone. After reaching the cells, it is first degraded into hydroquinone, which inhibits the activity of melanocytes through cytotoxicity. Arbutin can block the formation of melanin by inhibiting tyrosinase to achieve a whitening effect. , Arbutin can also effectively fight against pigmentation, as well as certain bactericidal and anti-inflammatory effects, and has a certain antioxidant effect.

Arbutin is divided into α-arbutin and β-arbutin. If there is no special label in the ingredient table, it generally refers to β-arbutin. The price of α-arbutin is also higher and inhibits the production of melanin. The effect is 10-15 times stronger than β-arbutin.

◽ Advantages:

α-Arbutin has good safety, whitening effect and stability.

◽ Disadvantages:

The reasonable addition amount of arbutin in skin care products is 3%, less than 3% whitening effect is not obvious, more than 3% will cause skin damage.

Ingredient - Vitamin C

As a commonly used traditional whitening ingredient, Vitamin C can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, reduce the formation of melanin and is an antioxidant. However, VC itself is unstable and is easily oxidized and yellowed in the air, so vitamin C derivatives are more commonly used, including vitamin C glycosides, ethyl vitamin C, vitamin C magnesium phosphate, etc. Whitening products on the market, more or less will add vitamin C or its derivatives. Used in cosmetics to scavenge free radicals and delay aging. Because of the instability of vitamin C itself, it is easily affected by the external environment, so cosmetics containing vitamin C are prone to discoloration.

◽ Advantages:

Ingredients are safe.

◽ Disadvantages:

Higher metering is required when using.

Ingredient - Kojic Acid

A classic whitening ingredient, kojic acid can inhibit the synthesis of tyrosinase, so it can strongly inhibit the formation of skin melanin, and has the effect of whitening and lightening spots, but it was widely used in the food industry and there is no clear dosage. The resulting skin irritation, the safety of kojic acid was questioned and was once banned.

It was not until 2005 that after a series of demonstrations, kojic acid was added to cosmetics again, but it is safe to use it within a certain dosage range. Although the dosage is not clearly specified, it is generally 0.1%-1%. In the meantime, if the concentration exceeds 2%, it will cause skin irritation and cause some allergic reactions. Today, only a small number of niche products will add this ingredient for whitening.

◽ Advantages:

Has whitening and blemish reduction effects.

◽ Disadvantages:

It needs to be used within a certain dose, otherwise it is easy to irritate the skin.

Ingredient - Tranexamic acid

Tranexamic acid, also known as tranexamic acid and tranexamic acid, was first used to stop bleeding. As early as 1979, tranexamic acid was found to have a certain effect on the treatment of chloasma, and it was gradually used in the field of whitening. Many toothpastes in the field of daily chemicals also add tranexamic acid to help reduce bleeding gums. For the whitening effect of external application, tranexamic acid is different from the above components. It does not inhibit the production of tyrosinase very well. It can block the diffusion of melanosomes to keratinocytes and achieve the effect of whitening and lightening.

◽ Advantages:

The ingredients are relatively mild and will not irritate the skin. The dosage should not exceed 4%, and the irritation will increase.

◽ Disadvantages:

The external effect is not significant, mainly for chloasma, not obvious for general pigmentation.